Bluzka, nauka, zdrowie, Wykroje męskie
[ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]
4/2010 Mens' shirt
By: burda style magazine
Mens’ shirt burda style magazine patterns FAQ
Materials
Chambray
Step 1 — Preparation
Trace the pattern pieces from the pattern sheet. Trace the pocket from piece 1 as a separate pattern piece â’
it is the same for all sizes.
The buttonholes on piece 1 are marked for size 48. For sizes 50 â’ 56, mark the top buttonhole the same
distance from neck edge as for size 48. The bottom buttonhole is in the same place for all sizes. Space the
other buttonholes evenly in between.
Seam and hem allowances:
Seams and edges 1.5 cm (5/8 in), upper edge of pocket 2.5 cm (1 in), sleeve vent band 7 mm (1/4 in) (lower
edge 1.5 cm / 5/8 in), hem 1.5 cm (5/8 in), no allowance on lengthwise edge of front self-facing.
Step 2 — Cutting Out
4/2010 Mens' shirt
1
1â’¯front 2x
â’â’¯pocket 1x
2â’¯yoke, on a fold 2x
3â’¯back, on a fold 1x
4â’¯sleeve 2x
5â’¯sleeve vent band 2x
6â’¯collar band, on a fold 2x
7â’¯collar, on a fold 2x
a) 2 cuffs, 26 â’ 26.5 â’ 27 â’ 27.5 â’ 28 cm (101/4 â’ 101/2 â’ 103/4 â’ 11 â’ 111/8 ins) long, 14
cm (51/2 ins) wide, finished width 7 cm (23/4 ins),
b) 2 binding strips for sleeve vents, 14 cm (51/2 ins) long, 3 cm (11/4 ins) wide -(incl. allowance).
Interfacing: See pattern layout.
Step 3 — Yoke
Pin yoke pieces to upper edge of back, pinning one yoke to outside and other yoke to inside. Stitch yokes in
place and press up. Stitch outer yoke to upper edges of fronts. Press seam allowances onto yoke. Turn in
inside yoke edges and baste along joining seams. Topstitch yoke close to joining seams. Baste open edges of
yoke together.
Step 4 — Pocket
Press allowance on upper edge of pocket to inside, turn in, and stitch 2.5 cm (1 in) from edge. Press
remaining pocket allowances to inside. Stitch pocket to left shirt front.
Step 5 — Construct sleeve vents
Construct sleeve vents on right and left sleeves as mirror images: Press allowances on edges of vent band to
inside, -except on long join-ing edge and bottom edge, and clip allowance diagonally into corner. Press band
on fold line, wrong side facing in, then unfold again. Slash sleeves as marked. Pin binding strip right sides
together with back cut edge. Stitch binding in place, 7 mm (1/4 in) from edge, ending stitching 7 mm (1/4 in)
above end of vent. Clip sleeve diagonally from end of vent toward end of seam. Lay binding strip over cut
edge to inside, turn edge in, and pin to joining seam. Work from right side to topstitch binding close to edge.
Stitch outer half of band right sides together with sleeve, along joining line, from bottom to marking. Clip
sleeve from end of vent, 1 cm (3/8 in) diagonally up toward band joining seam. Fold small triangle of fabric
up onto right side of sleeve and lay top end of binding onto right side of sleeve. Fold band over vent and pin
Step 2 — Cutting Out
2
top end in place. Fold inside half of band to inside on fold line and baste to joining seam. Topstitch band
close to joining seam. Edgestitch top end of band in place. Stitch across band as marked.
Step 6 — Pleats on sleeves
Fold pleat in lower edge of each sleeve and baste.
Step 7 — Stitch sleeves to armholes
Stitch sleeves to edges of armholes. Topstitch fronts, yoke and back 7 mm (1/4 in) from sleeve joining
seams, catching seam allowances. Stitch side seams and sleeve seams as continuous seams.
Step 8 — Hem
Press hem allowance to inside, turn in, and stitch in place.
Step 9 — Self-facings
Fold self-facings to inside on fold line and press. Lay doubled facings to inside and press. Baste to neck edge
and sew to the hem. Stitch inside edges of facing in place.
Step 10 — Collar with collar band
Stitch collar pieces right sides together on outer edges. Trim seam allowances. Turn collar right side out and
press. Topstitch 7 mm (1/4 in) from edges of collar. Lay collar band pieces right sides together, catching
collar in between. Stitch along front and upper edges of collar band, beginning and ending stitching in front
exactly on seam line of joining edge. Turn collar band right side out. Stitch outer collar band piece to neck
edge of shirt. Press seam allowances onto collar band. Turn in inside collar band piece and baste over joining
seam. Topstitch collar band close to all edges.
Step 11 — Cuffs
Stitch outer halves of cuffs to lower edges of sleeves. Press seam allowances of joining seams and of other
long edges of cuffs onto cuffs. Fold cuffs lengthwise, right side facing in, and stitch across ends. Turn right
side out. Baste inside edges in place. Topstitch cuffs close to joining seam and 1 cm (3/8 in) from seam.
Topstitch 7 mm (1/4 in) from side and lower edges of cuffs.
4/2010 Mens' shirt
Step 5 — Construct sleeve vents
3
[ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]