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summer climbing 08
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epic ready
T
here are epics and then there are
epic
epics. Stephen Venables pulling an open bivy (sans supplemen-
summer
climbing 08
g
ea
r
tal O2) at
28,300
on Everest… Takeyasu Minamiura soloing a new route on Trango Tower, chucking
off
all
of his gear and paragliding from the summit—only to get caught by a rogue gust and hung up,
stranded on a 16-inch-wide ledge
6,000
feet above the glacier with no climbing gear, sleeping bag, food, or
water… Doug Scott slipping on the very first rap off The Ogre, busting
both
his ankles and descending on
his knees for
eight
days back to basecamp.
A
lthough Venables, Minamiura and Scott’s snafus are famously nightmarish, the less-epic epics
2 - 15
big wall
16 - 25
trekking poles
26 - 33
packs
36 - 47
shelter
48 - 55
alpinism
56 - 63
lighting
in the alpine, big walling and mountaineering arenas (think: Shipton Spire, Queen Maud Land,
El Cap, the Latok group, Fitzroy, Zion, K2, K6, K7, anything in Baffin or Patagonia) are as common as
a beer bong in a frat house. Why? Because anytime climbers are pushing it, going for it heavy, laying
it out way off the deck, they will encounter dozens of ways the climb can go from smooth cruising to
full-blown epic: serac-riddled ridges, route-finding errors, unconsolidated sugar snow, 70-mph wind
blasts, apocalyptic rock and ice fall, firehosing rain, partner blow-ups, suffocating heat, bone-cracking
cold, protection-impossible kitty litter, forced bivys at hanging belays, stuck rap ropes, bowel-rattling trots
from rotten goat’s milk, whiteouts, brownouts, and blackouts. That’s why we design, build and test all of
Black Diamond’s big wall and mountain equipment to
be “epic ready.” So rest assured that no matter how
massive the heinousity gets, Black Diamond’s big wall
and mountain equipment can go where you’ll be going:
beyond
the norm,
beyond
the expected.
B
ut hang on, let’s be realistic. Just because your BD gear won’t break down and screw you over
words
10 - 11
heart attack
a ground-up free ascent
of el capitan’s 5.13b
El Corazon
...
that’s why we design, build and
test all of black diamond’s big
wall and mountain equipment
to be “
EpiC rEady
.”
how hard could it be? uh... plenty.
tommy caldwell
34 - 35
learning to crawl
the first climb is always the
hardest—especially when you
have no idea what you’re doing.
mid-pitch, mid-descent, mid-bivy, mid-rap, doesn’t mean you’re not going to epic when you’re
gambling for a summit way up high in Alaska, down in Peru, or over in Nepal. Come on… at some point
you’re
for sure
going to epic! Maybe (hopefully…) not as bad as Venables, Minamiura or Scott, but, oh yeah,
you’re going to epic, so be ready for it—Black Diamond equipment is.
jack tackle
64 - 65
the last great place
an arctic refugee’s call to
save the last great place
jonathan waterman
— the employee owners of black diamond
B
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Clay Usinger in a freak snowstorm on top of the Moby Dick formation at Cochise Stronghold, AZ.
1
james Q martin
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3
first ascent of the west wall of fenris, queen maud land, antarctica.
1
mike libecki
big wall
“twenty-eight hours into it, ivo and i sat on the island in the sky ledge, 2,000 feet off the deck on el cap.
i was cooked. i was done. i was ready to quit. i wanted to sleep. i closed my eyes as ivo rummaged through
the haulbag. then i heard a familiar ‘
clickssshhh
’ and opened my eyes. ivo had opened two beers. his face
was wide with enthusiasm, transferring energy into my mind and feeding the fire in my soul.
i knew then that i didn’t want to sleep. i wasn’t ready to quit. i wasn’t done.”
— ammon mcneely
, along with ivo ninov, managed to finish the
pacific Ocean Wall
( V i 5 .9 a 3) in a r ec o r d t ime o f 3 3 h o ur s 2 minu t e s , u sin g b d ’s
battle-tested pitons and hooks. mcneely holds 20 el capitan speed records,
including 10 first one-day ascents, a record in itself.
tools for big wall battle
with three hook sizes and a tripod base,
the talon is super stable on a bevy of
hooking challenges, including flat edges,
sketchy diorite extrusions and bat hooking.
an ultra-thin, double-
tapered blade allows the
pecker to provide security
where no other pin can.
iconic and long lasting, the
hot-forged lost arrows are essential
pins on nearly every aid climb.
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big wall
big wall
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blackdiamondequipment.com
1 801 278 5533
1
cory richards
rurp
grappling hook
talon
cliffhanger
Peckers
For hairline cracks, subtle seams and indistinct fractures,
the Pecker’s knife-thin, double-tapered blade its where
nothing else will.
rurP
™
used in bottoming, incipient cracks,
this aid tool (irst
developed by Y.C. back in 1960) has opened up otherwise
unclimbable passages. To ensure its continued usefulness
if ixed, this Realized Ultimate Reality Piton has a swaged
wire loop.
graPPling hOOk
slightly oversized, for hooking larger edges and flakes than
a cliffhanger,
the Grappling Hook’s relatively lat throw
allows it to it in tighter spots than most hooks and its wide
bipod base is remarkably stable, even on small edges. The
Grappling Hook should be slung with a 51 cm (20 in) length of
either 13 mm (1/2 in) or 14 mm (9/16 in) tubular webbing.
angles
angles fit larger cracks, pockets and pods,
and their design,
coupled with the springiness of the steel used, gives these
pitons inherently high holding power. When they’re not
overdriven, they are easy to remove and will last through
countless Grade VI nailing adventures from Bafin to Zion.
kniFeblaDes & bugabOOs
classic pitons for thinner cracks,
Knifeblades and their
bigger, longer brethren, Bugaboos, have precision-ground
blades for a consistent taper and a hole in the thickest part
of the head to reduce weight without sacriicing strength
or durability. You can keep the A4 fear factor in check by
clipping these pins’ offset eyes for maximum torque.
lOst arrOws
tough enough to withstand repeated abuse,
these hot-
forged big wall pitons are patterned after the original designs
of John Salathé and are as light as possible for their given
size.
weight* thickness
#1 33 g (1.2 oZ) 28 mm (1.1 in)
#2 62 g (2.2 oZ) 41 mm (1.6 in)
#3 111 g (3.9 oZ) 51 mm (2.0 in)
*with swageD 2.4 mm (3/32 in) cable
Pecker #1 #520216 $13.50
Pecker #2 #520217 $13.95
Pecker #3 #520218 $14.50
weight
length
thickness
#1
56 g (2.0 oZ)
44.4 mm (1 3/4 in)
4 mm (5/32 in)
weight:
14 g (0.5 oZ)
rurP #520210 $14.95
weight
length
thickness
#2
70 g (2.5 oZ)
50.8 mm (1 3/4 in)
6.3 mm (1/4 in)
#1
56 g (2.0 oZ)
102 mm (4 in)
12.7 mm (1/2 in)
weight:
67 g (2.4 oZ)
graPPling hOOk #520225 $12.95
weight
length
thickness
#3
84 g (3 oZ)
57.1 mm (2 1/8 in)
7.9 mm (5/16 in)
#2
70 g (2.47 oZ)
108 mm (4 1/4 in)
15.9 mm (5/8 in)
#1
20 g (0.7 oZ)
76 mm (3 in)
3.2 mm (1/8 in)
#4
99 g (3.5 oZ)
73 mm (2 7/8 in)
9.5 mm (3/8 in)
#3
99 g (3.49 oZ)
143 mm (5 5/8 in)
19 mm (3/4 in)
#2
22 g (0.8 oZ)
89 mm (3 1/2 in)
3.2 mm (1/8 in)
cliFFhanger
hooking small to medium flakes, edges and rugosities,
the Cliff hanger is an indispensable tool on necky aid lines.
Its bipod base and chiseled point with lat tip are designed
to prevent rotation and enhance stability. A 51 cm (20 in)
sling of 13 mm (1/2 in) or 14 mm (9/16 in) tubular webbing
is necessary for use.
#5
84 g (3 oZ)
82.5 mm (3 1/4 in)
4.7 mm (3/16 in)
#4
127 g (4.48 oZ)
143 mm (5 5/8 in)
25.4 mm (1 in)
kniFeblaDe #1, stanDarD #520230 $10.95
kniFeblaDe #2, thick #520240 $10.95
talOn
three hooks let you match hook size to edge
(from 5 mm
[3/16 in] bat holes to 13 mm [1/2 in] lat edges), and the extra
broad base increases stability—perfect for routes with tons
of varied hooking like El Cap’s
Native Son
. The Talon should
be slung with a 51 cm (20 in) length of 13 mm (1/2 in) or 14
mm (9/16 in) tubular webbing.
#6
99 g (3.5 oZ)
85.7 mm (3 3/8 in)
6.3 mm (1/4 in)
#5
140 g (4.94 oZ)
143 mm (5 5/8 in)
31.7 mm (1 1/4 in)
#7
114 g (4 oZ)
88.9 mm (3 1/2 in)
7.9 mm (5/16 in)
#6
197 g (6.95 oZ)
146 mm (5 3/4 in)
38.1 mm (1 1/2 in)
#8
114 g (4 oZ)
117.5 mm (4 5/8 in)
7.1 mm (9/32 in)
weight
length
thickness
angle #1, 1/2” #520710 $8.95
angle #2, 5/8” #520720 $9.50
angle #3, 3/4” #520730 $9.50
angle #4, 1” #520740 $9.50
angle #5, 1 1/4” #520750 $11.95
angle #6, 1 1/2” #520760 $11.95
#3
65 g (2.3 oZ)
89 mm (3 1/2 in)
4 mm (5/32 in)
lOst arrOw
®
#1, shOrt thin #520500 $15.95
lOst arrOw #2, shOrt meDium #520500 $15.95
lOst arrOw #3, shOrt thick #520500 $15.95
lOst arrOw #4, weDge #520500 $15.95
lOst arrOw #5, lOng thin #520500 $15.95
lOst arrOw #6, lOng meDium #520500 $15.95
lOst arrOw #7, lOng thick #520500 $15.95
lOst arrOw #8, lOng DOng #520500 $15.95
#4
76 g (2.7 oZ)
118 mm (4 5/8 in)
4 mm (5/32 in)
#5
70 g (2.5 oZ)
92 mm (3 5/8 in)
4.7 mm (3/16 in)
#6
84 g (3 oZ)
124 mm (4 7/8 in)
4.7 mm (3/16 in)
bugabOO #3, shOrt thin #520310 $11.95
bugabOO #4, lOng thin #520320 $11.95
bugabOO #5, shOrt meDium #520330 $12.95
bugabOO #6, lOng meDium #520340 $12.95
weight:
42 g (1.5 oZ)
cliFFhanger #520220 $10.95
weight:
48 g (1.7 oZ)
talOn #520200 $17.95
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big wall
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blackdiamondequipment.com
1 801 278 5533
  [ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]